Happy wallet, happy holidays: Seychelles on a budget

Posted on 22 November 2022

Taking a considered look at the island nation of Seychelles, Ryan Enslin discovers that time out in this magical archipelago needn’t cost you an arm and a leg. Here is Seychelles on a budget. 

The island nation of Seychelles has long been ranked as one of the more desirable locations for those in search of an idyllic island getaway. For South Africans, it’s even easier with a direct seven-hour flight into Mahé, the main island. Seychelles is made up of 115 islands just off East Africa and Mahé hosts the capital city of Victoria, which also serves as a hub when visiting the other islands.

But Seychelles has also garnered a reputation as being expensive, with all that beauty coming at a cost. It doesn’t have to be that way. I recently explored the archipelago and found some remarkably affordable ways to get your dose of Seychellois island inspiration. Let me share it with you.

Cycle on the bicycle island of La Digue

Much like South Africa, life in the Seychelles is a celebration of the glorious outdoors thanks to the year-round good weather. Catch a local ferry to the island of La Digue, also known as the bicycle island, and soak up the sun as you explore under your own steam.

Many locals rent out bicycles, so negotiate yourself a great deal to ensure you have a little extra to enjoy a cocktail mid-cycle as you gaze upon the magnificent Indian Ocean vistas, found around each bend.

While on La Digue, look out for the coloured façade and white trim of the Notre Dame de L’Assomption church, greet a local giant Aldabara tortoise, who may well be beyond 100 years of age, and pop in at the local market for supplies. Fresh fruit, veggies and fish are available in abundance and make for an affordable meal during your Seychelles stay.

Local ferry company Cat Cococs operate a daily service with a stop in Praslin, except for Fridays when the transfer is direct, from Mahé. Rates start from R1 070 pp.

Explore the capital city of Victoria

Originally settled by the French in 1778, today the capital city of Victoria has many attractions, museums and sights to satiate your curious soul. Victoria is best explored on foot in an effort to truly take her in.

The Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke market is frequented by locals to secure the freshest fish and spices on the island. In addition, various curios are available to remind you of your time in Seychelles, but be sure to get there early. Pop into Jivan’s Importers in Albert Street as you approach the market, they offer well-priced fabrics and similar wares. The Navasakthi Vinayagar Hindu Temple and the Natural History Museum are also in close proximity to the market and definitely worth a visit.

Look out for the Little Big Ben in the centre of Victoria, unveiled in 1903 to mark the passing of Queen Victoria two years earlier. Street food vendors offer a yummy array of Creole foods to round off your bout of exploration.

Take a stroll across Curieuse Island

What was previously a lepper station until the mid-20th century is today a nature lovers’ paradise. Curieuse Island is only 1,82 square kilometers of granitic rock, but it lays claim to the longest boardwalk in Seychelles. Landing at Baie Lazare, be guided by the trail up the rocks (after paying your entrance fee) and through a mangrove forest, parts of which are navigated via the boardwalk.

The gentle 45-minute walk across the island is easy for most levels of fitness. Be sure to plan your stroll as the end of the walk, at Anse St José, sees a beach braai at 12:30 daily. Share traditional Creole cuisine at a communal long table as you swap travel stories with fellow explorers.

The park fee on Curieuse Island is just under R300 and you can book a ferry for R1 100pp with a local operator. The beach braai costs R390 for all you can eat of the freshest fish straight from the Indian Ocean. They no longer accept cash but you can pay by card on the island.

Spend a day lazing on Beau Vallon beach

Hidden away along the north-western coast of Mahé, Beau Vallon has been voted as one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. Plus the 40-minute taxi drive from Victoria through the lush forests gives you further insight into life on the island. The clear waters and coral reefs are magnets for those who enjoy diving while the street food vendors who line the Durban-like promenade tempt the foodies.

When you need a break from soaking up the island lifestyle, take a leisurely walk along the main road which hosts an abundance of bars and restaurants.

If you ever wanted to live like a local in Seychelles, Beau Vallon is your spot.

The admin

The local carrier, Air Seychelles, flies direct from Joburg to Mahé every second day, with a one-way flight starting from just over R3 900. Local currency is Seychellois Rupee and 1SCR will cost you around R1,31. The cellular network is excellent in Seychelles and I would suggest you grab yourself a Cable & Wireless sim card as I did. It just makes everything that much easier.

Foreigners are forbidden from renting scooters (much to my dismay) but speak to any local and they will put you in touch with a taxi service. Be sure to negotiate the fee!

My suggestion would be to base yourself in Victoria for most of your stay, with a few nights at Beau Vallon. Consult the online listings for a wide variety of accommodation offerings to suit most budgets.

Do your planning, get on that flight and enjoy dramatic sunsets that change from one evening to the next, much like the eternal summer wind blowing in off the Indian Ocean.

Or, if you’re feeling lucky, enter this competition and you can WIN A five-night holiday for four in the Seychelles! 

Follow more of Ryan’s adventures here.

Pictures: Ryan Enslin

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