14 epic destinations for women who travel solo

Posted on 14 August 2017

Love exploring a place on no one else’s timeline but your own, but worry about safety? We asked seven women where they went on their own, why they loved it, and what their solo travel strategy is. Here are 14 epic destinations tested by women who travel solo – plus seven useful tips.

 

1. Piketberg, Western Cape

Recommended by Helen Walne

Helen Walne is a writer who likes to head off on solo trips into rural regions where the only threats to her safety are poorly made fires, stray dogs and her terrible sense of direction.

Perfect settings at Kapteinskloof in Piketberg. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

I’m perpetually working on a novel and every few months I take myself off to a farm cottage for 10 days to write and make extremely bad fires. My routine goes like this: start working at 8am, drink tea at 9am, fiddle around with resident dogs at 10am, work until 1pm, eat broccoli, work until 3pm and then walk or run for an hour. In the evenings, I might venture into a nearby village for beer and company.

Stay here The Old Kapteinskloof Guest House near Piketberg in the Western Cape is a beautiful historic cottage with exposed beams and thatch. R250 pp (the cottage is divided into two and can sleep either two or six). 0837109017, kapteinskloof.co.za

 

2. Bolivia

Helen’s best international trip

Amazing mountain scenery in Bolivia. Photo by Helen Walne.

In 2015, the novel still wasn’t writing itself, so I went further afield – to Bolivia – to stay with an author friend whom I hoped would encourage me to write. Instead, I did a lot of travelling. Who wouldn’t? I did a solo trip to the mountain area of Sorata, taking a three-hour ride in a minibus taxi that seemed to be stuck together with pan pipes. But once there, I hiked alone, my only safety concern the numerous stray dogs that sometimes bared their teeth.

Stay here I stayed at Altai Oasis, a good-value eco-lodge just outside the village of Sorata comprised of rustic yet comfy cottages. From R280 pp. +59171519856, altaioasis.com

Also read: exploring the Bolivian desert in photos

 

Helen’s tips

I make sure the cottages I stay in are quiet and private, yet near enough to a main house in case of emergencies. If the cottages are pet-friendly, I take my dogs – for protection and company. I speak Spanish, which made getting around Bolivia easier, and I generally chose accommodation out of the main towns to avoid noise and drunk men. And I always hiked with a stick to ward off any miscreant dogs.

 

3. Inner-city Johannesburg, Gauteng

Recommended by Joonji Mdyogolo

Joonji Mdyogolo is head of content at Livity Africa and a columnist for City Press. She travels whenever she can and her favourite trips are when she can immerse herself in the history and future of a city.

A typical inner-city Johannesburg street scene. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

A typical inner-city Johannesburg street scene. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

‘That building there that looks like ulusu (tripe) – follow it to get home,’ my mother used to tell me when I went off to explore Joburg’s inner city as a teenager. That skyscraper, the Southern Life building, was one of the places where taxis to Pimville Zone 1, Soweto, lined up. It was – and still is – my North Star. Exploring the city alone without the burden of someone else’s itinerary reveals a marvel of gems – from old buildings (like my favourite, the Post Office on Rissik Street) to bargain buys on the street. As a first-time traveller, though, you have to stay alert as Joburg’s streets can be as busy and confusing as New York’s. Without a landmark to lead you safely home, I recommend you ask for help from strangers: ‘Sawubona, mama (or baba, sisi or bhuti). Bengicela ukubuza…’ is the best place to start.

Stay here  The Reef Hotel on 58 Anderson is in the financial district. It’s got lovely views of the Johannesburg skyline if you get a room on one of the top floors. It’s right next to the Standard Bank headquarters, so if I’ve got time, I like to visit the Standard Bank Gallery. R1055 per room. Tel 0116891000.

 

4. Kampala, Uganda

Joonji’s best international trip

A view of Kampala through the trees. Photo by Rachel Strohm, Flickr.

A view of Kampala through the trees. Photo by Rachel Strohm, Flickr.

In Kampala, I didn’t feel the need for vigilance. Seeing young women walking the streets well past midnight made me vow to come back again to really party. My Ugandan girlfriends were invaluable in negotiating with private taxi drivers, who will drive you from spot to spot and wait, for a fair price. So was the watchman and gardener at our AirBnB rental, who organised boda (motorbike) drivers so we could zip around the hilly suburbs.

Stay here Yellow Haven, which overlooks Lake Victoria, has a pool and modern rooms. From R650 per person sharing. Tel +256777609947. Our AirBnB in a private residence was also a great budget stay at R746 per night for two.

 

Joonji’s tips

Speaking to and making friends with locals makes me feel safe. I’m terrible at reading maps and directions, so people on the streets are my verification mechanism to get me where I need to go. Simply put, I prep as much as I can for solo travel, then I trust in people. Mostly they don’t let me down.

 

5. Balule Satellite Camp, Kruger National Park

Recommended by Melanie van Zyl

Melanie van Zyl is our senior travel photojournalist who wants to be the most qualified adventurer possible. She’s an Open Water Padi Diver, field guide and not scared of camping, 4x4ing or getting lost.

Balule Satellite Camp in the centre of Kruger National Park. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

I’ve been to Kruger a number of times and to date this small rustic camp is my favourite. Named ‘Balule’ after the Tsonga word for the Olifants River, the small number of campsites – just 18 in total – makes this satellite camp an incredibly intimate and wild bushveld experience. Almost all the sites and the six rondavels are based at the fence, which acts as the only barrier between you and the hyenas that patrol the camp border every night.

Stay here Balule Satellite Camp is just around the corner from the main Olifants Rest Camp in the centre of the park – where you might even spot the elusive Pel’s fishing owl. The rondavels are very basic with shared facilities and I personally prefer camping, but neither option detracts from the cosy atmosphere. From R285 for two people camping; from R415 for two people in a rondavel. Tel 0137356606.

 

6. Botswana

Melanie’s best international trip

The Mokoro trips into the delta are a great way of getting to grips with the channels and spotting wildlife hiding in the papyrus. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

I did a 10-day road trip through Botswana and up into the Zambezi Region with journalist Vuyi Qubeka. Just two women, a 4×4 and the open road and not once did we feel threatened. We capably camped our way around the country before heading into Namibia – but sometimes there’s nothing like a soft bed.

Stay here I love the quirky finishes at Planet Baobab. It’s also a great base for checking out the nearby Makgadikgadi Pans. From R840 per person sharing twin huts, including breakfast. Tel +26772338344.

Also read: How to see the best of Botswana in 10 days

 

Mel’s tips

If I feel uncomfortable, I’ve learnt recently that I can simply get in the car and leave. There’s no shame in self-preservation. I’d rather be rude and leave than spend a night stressing and listening to foreign noises with my heart in my throat ‒ even if it means driving through the dead of night.

 

7. Port St Johns, Eastern Cape

Recommended by Vuyi Qubeka

Vuyi Qubeka‘s favourite memory is dancing the pasada in a local spot in Maputo, Mozambique. She and her friends were headed to Tofo and hadn’t booked accommodation for the night – so they decided to forgo sleep and dance the night away instead.

A local woman collects oysters on the beach at Port St Johns. Photo by Vuyi Qubeka.

A local woman collects oysters on the beach at Port St Johns. Photo by Vuyi Qubeka.

Travelling solo to Port St Johns was one of my favourite sojourns and I revelled in the natural beauty, the simple way of life, the affordability and the friendliness of the people. It’s easiest to self-drive to the village, but once there, there are minibus taxis … and you can walk, and walk, and walk.

Stay here There are many backpackers where you can make friends, arrange day jaunts and get reliable suggestions for things to do, see and eat. My favourite was Amapondo. From R100 per person for dorms, R390 for a double room (sleeps two). There’s also camping for R90 per person. Tel 0833153103.

 

8. Bus to Harare, Zimbabwe

Vuyi’s best international trip

The sun setting on top of the giant rocks at Domboshawa, just outside of Harare. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

It wasn’t so much about the destination but the journey. A friend was getting married in Harare and my twin and I took a bus there with Intercape. What an experience! It’s a Christian bus and there’s a prayer at the beginning, so you know God is on board (if you’re into that kind of thing). We sat at the top of the double-decker bus and the views of Beit Bridge were unimaginable. I loved that a community is formed during the trip, especially at the border stops, which can be quite daunting. It felt safe and I was able to observe the movement across borders that thousands of Africans undertake every day.

Stay here In Harare, we stayed at the gracious, 100-year-old Meikles Hotel. From R1820 per person, Tel +263715071698

A one-way Intercape bus ticket from Johannesburg to Harare is from R450 per person. Tel 0213804400.

Also read: The insider’s guide to  a weekend in Harare

 

Vuyi’s tips

Travelling by yourself, at least once, is so important for introspection. A good tip is to call the SA embassy in the country you’re visiting and notify them you are around. Leave your full details, emergency contact numbers and a copy of your passport or ID at your hotel reception in case of emergencies. Make an effort to learn a few words in the language of the country you’re visiting.

 

9. Agulhas National Park, Western Cape

Recommended by Nicole Biondi

Nicole Biondi is a marketing and communications specialist, spoken-word artist, prolific public speaker, murder-mystery writer, half-marathon runner and is far too claustrophobic to be boxed.

The iconic striped lighthouse at the Agulhas National Park. Photo by Chris Davies.

A few years ago I had the enviable job of marketing the South African National Parks (SANParks) in the Cape region. While each of them has unique merits, my favourite visits were the ones that took me to the southernmost tip of Africa, to Agulhas National Park. The two-and-a-half-hour drive from Cape Town offers the opportunity for thoughts to turn inward, while sheep-dotted hills and sleepy towns with towering church steeples keep the eyes amused.

Stay here Agulhas Rest Camp is a haven of serenity. Nothing beats sitting on the deck of one of the fully equipped wooden chalets, smelling the sea mist-kissed fynbos, listening to an orchestra of birdsong and gazing out at the ocean. From R1100 per unit (sleeps two), park entry R37 per person. Tel 0284356078.

 

10. Mumbai, India

Nicole’s best international trip

Children playing in the waters of Chowpatty beach, the skyline of Mumbai distant in the horizon. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

An experience in complete contrast to my serene Agulhas trips was my virgin visit to India last year. I was going to be staying in Mumbai for a day and night on my own before heading off to meet my boyfriend in Kochi. Arriving in Colaba in Mumbai, I did what I always do when travelling: headed into the streets with the plan of getting a little bit lost. I instantly fell in love with the bustling, sound-filled, colour-coated, manic city and after half an hour of wandering, stopped to ask a kind-looking man for directions back to my hotel. He was aghast to find I was traipsing around Mumbai unaccompanied and immediately asked where my husband was.

Stay here I stayed at the gorgeous boutique Hotel Abode, which has chic, locally inspired decor (hand- crafted tiles, vintage Indian furniture and original artworks). From R950 for two. Tel +918080234066.

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Nicole’s tips

My SANParks journeys, always incident free, showed me I had nothing to fear from solo-tripping around the Western Cape, while India taught me that sometimes for ease of travel, it’s necessary to embellish the truth when it comes to marital status.

 

11. Jacobsbaai, Western Cape

Recommended by Angel Campey

Angel Campey is a professional stand-up comedian by night and a wanderluster by day, and got her first passport stamp at age two on a family visit to Zimbabwe. She has been everywhere, from South Korea to New York.

Amazing sea views in Jacobs Bay. Photo by Angel Campey.

There’s something about the chilly ocean, windswept landscapes and white-washed cottages of this West Coast hideaway that beckon a solo visit. It’s quiet enough to be free of leering tourists but quaint enough to feel safe, and lends itself to pretending you’re the forlorn heroine of a Jane Austen novel as you run up and down the beaches. Or wander the beaches – running is cardio and heroines don’t wheeze. The dirt road there is an easy drive and you can buy oysters for R8 from Charlie’s Fish Shop in Saldanha along the way. It’s also about 20 minutes from Paternoster, which has fine-dining options.

Stay here I stayed at Klokkiebosch Guesthouse, which, with its high ceilings and attention to detail, has an opulent ambience. There’s also a lovely balcony and glass front room, so you can find a cosy nook in which to read (or write the next bestseller), no matter the weather. From R890 for a loft room (sleeps two), excluding breakfast. Tel 0227153059.

 

12. Sri Lanka

Angel’s best international trip

A postcard-perfect paradise beach in Dikwella, where you’ll find blue waters and fresh coconut. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

I’d always wanted to travel to India but had heard enough cautionary tales about women travelling alone to put it on hold. Then I discovered Sri Lanka – or, as I like to call it, ‘India Lite’. It has all the checklist items for your dream island vacation (including cricket, curry and saris) and travelling here felt safe. Aside from the town of Kandy, which is very touristy, I never felt hustled. People were friendly and polite. Its backpacker trail is still relatively untrodden and you’ll feel more like an adventurer and less like a vest-wearing kid on a gap year. I went from ancient ruins and tea-farm tours to palm-fringed beaches frequented by turtles and blue whales, all in a single three-hour private van ride.

Stay here Chamodya Homestay in Ella, a small town in the south, has views of a waterfall tumbling out of lush vegetation – and the woman who runs it will bring you sporadic pots of tea. From R530 for a double room, including breakfast. Tel +94785354726.

Also read: In pursuit of paradise: beach hopping in Sri Lanka

 

Angel’s tips

I found that when taking long train rides, it was best to befriend fellow travellers so I didn’t appear to be a solo traveller and perhaps more vulnerable. Meeting people in the common areas of hotels and hostels not only leads to safer travels, but can lead to lifelong friendships. I put a ring on my wedding finger in Asia as I found local men more respectful if they believed me to be married.

 

13. Montagu, Western Cape

Recommended by Teagan Cunniffe

Recommended by Teagan Cunniffe: is our photo editor who spends most of her time on the road. The more isolated it is the better – throw in a hammock, glass of wine and a book and she’s hard-pressed to ever leave.

Another of my favourites, and I hope to return. It’s a simple farm cottage surrounded by olive trees, with a daybed on the verandah. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

My favourite part of driving to Montagu is dipping through the natural rock archway that heralds the unofficial entrance to this quaint town. There are the normal small-town features – little church, vineyards, good food, glorious mountain escarpments and hikes – but for me the special aspect is the Leiwater birding site in the middle of town, teeming with sacred ibis, cormorants and egrets, among others.

Stay here One of my favourite South African finds, Klein Nektar, is a farm cottage surrounded by an olive grove. Its wrap-around veranda has a tempting daybed. From R1900 for two. R650 per person extra (sleeps four). Tel 0715062810.

Also read: 12 of our favourite farm stays around South Africa\

 

14. Kigali, Rwanda

Teagan’s best international trip

The taxi-moto industry is absolutely huge. Seldom do you have to wait more than a minute (and that’s in less populated districts) to flag one down. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The first thing you’ll notice about Kigali is how clean the streets are. The next is the hordes of taxi motos (motorbikes) whizzing around, bobble-headed passengers clinging on. Get on one of those, you say? Absolutely not. But it’s the main mode of transport and is surprisingly safe and dirt cheap. Before you know it you’ll be standing on the side of the street, nervously flagging down your first of many. It’s the best way to travel between the sprawling suburbs, all of which you can wander through alone and at ease, camera swinging by your side. You’ll find nothing but friendliness in this colourful city of contradictions.

Stay here  I stayed at the pricey but reputable Lemigo. This huge four-star hotel is well situated to access both the airport and CBD, and more importantly has staff who are happy to chat to you about getting around the city. From R2020 per person, including breakfast. Tel +25078842095.

 

Teagan’s tips

Save all your important documents (such as copies of your credit card, passport and ID) to Dropbox for on-the-go access. Always charge your phone before heading out, and keep an emergency battery charger on you. Upon entry into foreign countries, buy a local SIM card and data package. You can use this to access WhatsApp as well as Google maps (to trace the route your taxi is taking, or navigate while walking).

 

This story first appeared in the August 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our August issue features Mana Pools, great North West parks, and best trips for women. On shelves from 25 July.

 






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