Living on safari

Posted on 18 August 2011

Moments ago they were motionless; peacefully sleeping in a huddle beneath the trees, hidden from the hot African sun. Now, suddenly they’re up; greeting each other with penetratingly high-pitched calls and playful bites.

“Guys, we need to be prepared” urges our pro Wilderness guide. “These dogs are hungry. The playful games are a way to spur the pack into action.” They become a blur of motion. “You need about 800ISO if you want to get good pics,” he adds as we ready our cameras. “They move quickly so you want a high shutter speed to capture the action.”

Suddenly they lock eyes and ears on a target. Intensely focused, they move rapidly into the thickets. We give chase. Anticipating their next move our guide navigates though the thick mopani woodland and out into an open space. With faces pressed hard against our cameras, we sit ready. Waiting for them to appear!

I’ll have only seconds to capture the dogs in motion. They appear from the thick mopani woodland. The cameras fire like machine guns as the dogs flash past the vehicle. Again they disappear! This time it’s too thick to follow.

We loop around, hoping to catch them on the other side. No luck! They’re simply too fast. We find them in a clearing, their prey almost completely devoured. The younger dogs play tug of war with the remaining pieces while the others rest, their bellies full.

In the vehicle our guest Cheri, is boiling over with excitement. Unable to contain herself she speaks her mind, “Did you see that’s Steve? Did you see how their character changed when they spotted that impala? I have never seen anything like that.” Steve, her husband, sits in silence. His mind still processing what he had just witnessed.

It’s fascinating to witness the emotions stirred within people when they witness something as unique as a wild dog hunt. Steve and Cheri are eager nature photographers but this is their first experience of Africa. I decided to join them on their last afternoon drive and I am thrilled I did.

For many people a true African safari is distant fantasy. To them Africa is a wild, untamed land of mystery that’s often only seen from living room couches, courtesy of Natgeo Wild, Africa Geographic and the likes of. And this is no fault of theirs. Africa can be an expensive destination and for many it’s a long way to travel.

My situation is however different… Several months ago I left my 9-5 in Johannesburg to work as a camp manager at Savuti Bush Camp in Botswana. Savuti is a seven-tented camp located in the Linyanti Concession. The concession is home to four small camps – DumaTau, Savuti Bush Camp, Linyanti Tented Camp and Kings Pool – a total of 32 tents on a 125 000 hectares of paradise. Simply put, this is the Africa we all dream of.

Back in camp the still; cool evening invites us to dinner with the stars. With a full camp, the dinner table is bustling with excitement. Guides, managers and guests sit together. Trading stories of past adventures while talking fondly of our home towns, and how we found ourselves out here. Let us also not forget the intriguing debates on politics, religion and the delicate future of our planet.

Even though our guests come from different corners of the globe and often from vastly different backgrounds, we almost always find common interest. Most often it’s through a shared passion for the natural environment and an inquisitive nature to learn more about this captivating world. The old cliché of “˜arrive as strangers, leave as friends’ is fitting.

After an enjoyable evening the guests retire to bed and the staff retreat to the comfort of their homes. Both anxious to get some rest before tomorrows early start. Sitting at the fire I take the time to enjoy the solitude. The stillness of a calm African night is soothing. There’s silence, except the occasional whoop whoop of our resident hyena (no doubt on his way to the itchen) in the distance.

It is these moments of peace and tranquility that keep me connected. Taking the time to enjoy the stillness is important while out here. It’s easy to get lost in the chaos of the everyday work and forget where I am. It is in these moments where I gain appreciation. It’s an appreciation for the natural environment, the wildlife and the delicate balance that exists between them.

The next morning is a grueling 05h00 wake up for our unsuspecting guests. “Some vacation this is. I mean, I can’t think of any other vacation where I’m expected to wake up earlier than I do on a work day back home.” Mavis explains around the breakfast table while enjoying her first cup of coffee. “When I get home I’m going to need a vacation from my vacation” she jokes. Mavis is one of our new arrivals. Her and her sister endured the long haul flight from JFK to find out what this Africa thing is all about. She’s got a bubbly personality and I can already see we’re going to get on famously.

Through breakfast the newbie’s interrogate the regulars on what the morning drive will have in store for them. Happily, they re-encounter previous encounters. Their enthusiasm radiates through their excited voices and exaggerated hand gestures. Some bring out their cameras, showing off the many pictures as proof of what was witnessed.

Just then the deep roar of our resident male lion rips through the dinning room. The guides simultaneously stop eating and listen intensely. “He’s just east of camp, not far from here” says Lets, one of the guides on duty, “We must go now” Just like that everyone is up and out, coffee cups and porridge bowls abandoned for the prospect of seeing the lion.

With everyone out on drive the camp changes gear. The house keepers scurry along the walkways, arms full of laundry bags and dirty linen. They must have the rooms ready before guests get back from their activity. Meanwhile the kitchen is a hive of activity while the chefs prepare bunch. It must be ready by 11h00, timing is everything. We have new guests arriving later in the day and they too will need lunch, that’s an additional meal. It’s going to be a busy day for the kitchen.

Up front the waitresses clear the breakfast tables and set them for brunch. The decks are swept, floors mopped, couches straightened and cushions puffed. The main area must be clean and inviting at all times. It requires constant attention.

This morning the general camp assistants and I have a massive task at hand, curtsey of our large mammalian friend from the night before. Last night the elephant managed to destroy the balustrades on the walkway between room 4 and 5 while searching for food. This is a daily job at this time of the year and we will most likely be doing the same thing tomorrow morning. I need to devise a better strategy to manage this elephant’s eating habits. Hopefully tomorrow I will have the time.

Having the elephant in camp is a big talking point and I can understand why. Imagine sitting in your room while Africa’s largest mammal crunches away just the other side of your thin canvas wall. A thrilling encounter to tell your friends and family back home.

Behind the scenes we operate a busy, sometimes chaotic operation with never ending tasks and to do lists. Up front guests enjoy a tranquil camp that offers them the chance to re-connect with nature in a warm, friendly environment. Many of our guests will never know or understand what is required to deliver such a unique experience in remote destination such as this.

“˜Savuti, Savuti for Lets” is heard from the office radio

‘Lets, go ahead for Savuti’ I reply

‘Two minutes out’

“˜Copy that, thanks’

We head down to the parking area to welcome the guests back to camp. As the vehicle approaches you can hear the banter. It’s been a successful morning. They got the lion for a brief moment but that was not the highlight. A hyena killed a warthog not far from camp. They saw it by chance but witnessed the whole event. At brunch I sit with Steve and Cheri who re-live the entire event with me in every gory detail. Thankfully I am used to it now so it does not spoil the meal.

Sadly, Steve and Cheri are leaving us this morning. Their journey is taking them to other safari camps in the Okavango Delta and Kalahari. Before they go we give them insight into what they can expect; keeping their passion and enthusiasm alive for the rest of their journey.

As we say goodbye we can’t help but feel a little sad. They have had a memorable time with us and it has been a pleasure hosting them. As the vehicle turns the corner they wave and shout promises to return. Maybe one day the will”¦

In today’s world of economic growth and development it is of vital importance that pristine wilderness areas such as the Savute region are protected. This is however, only possible if people understand and value its importance. As camp managers working  in this environment it is our duty to expose our visitors to its natural wonders and delicate balance. With enthusiastic guests like Steve and Cheri it’s not a duty, it’s a privilege.






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