Ray Chaplin’s solo walk from Cape Town to Beit Bridge

Posted on 14 January 2010

Sadly 2 pm came and the evening tour at the South African Astronomial Observatory didn’t look likely, so I moved a little out of town to the Sterland Boerdery Caravan Park, owned by Jurg Wagenaar, who also owns several other tourist related businesses in town. The only other stand taken was by a couple from Kempton Park, who were good to chat to and hear about their travels – six weeks so far, including Augrabies, Clanwilliam, Cape Town and now the slow trek home.

I ate a treat chocolate and special drink before dinner, which was cut short as Jurg’s stargazing show was starting. Probably just as well because I was wolfing down dinner – not good when it’s an entire pot full. So we watched a DVD and chatted about the stars (no Mark, not those from Bollywood) and when we moved outside the clouds were even thicker than before… so no stargazing sadly.

Back to the tent and as I finished dinner [cold by now] Jurg came to call us… stargazing was on because a couple insisted on a show and weren’t backing down. GO BARBARA! I’d met her and William earlier in the day – lovely couple visiting from the UK. She’s originally from Cape Town and he’s from the Netherlands, but both in IT in London.

We looked at several stars and clusters, but the clouds didn’t allow for too much or too much time per topic, so I returned to my tent for probably the best nights sleep since leaving home.

Morning came and I packed up, getting ready to roll into town for the 8am opening of the stores for a resupply of essentials so that I can get to Fraserburg… before heading out of town to SAAO. I found a freezer with some ice in, so grabbed a bag and filled my 1 l flask with ice… as well as my two insulated water bottles that reside in the bottle cages on Tootsie. While these wouldn’t stay cold for too long, my flask should have cold water for three days.

Getting out of town was tough, as it was a sharp climb and the wind was whipping me all over the place… and, to make matters worse, I really didn’t feel like walking. Might be the blister I’m developing on my baby toe on my right foot… so just the alignment of the stars.

Not having eaten a proper breakfast, I pulled over for a good one – muesli with yoghurt! Yip, I bought some grape drinking yoghurt in town and had it with brekkie – what a treat! I can’t normally keep that cold / fresh so stick to the small long life milks – not great tasting, but better than dry muesli.

A few cars stopped to ask what I was doing and / or offer a lift, but I trudged on an every now and then caught a glimpse of my destination. I then realised just what a climb I’d have to get to the observatoy itself – WOW! Looked like a massive mountain pass from the distance.

With about 2 km to go on the road to the gate, I got hammered by a thunderstorm with the wind driving raindrops into me. It felt like golf balls hitting me all over.

Having survived that I got to the gate and found a problem – no intercom / bell to get them to open. It was a ‘car sensitive’ pad that you drive over… AND WOOHOOOO! Tootsie somehow opened the gate! Must be all the spare water I am carrying at the moment (32 l to be exact).

And now the fun began – one monster climb up to the visitors centre. EISH! I battled!! I pushed for a bit, I pulled for a bit, I pushed some more and after talking to myself – a lot – I got to a flatter piece and was grateful I’d stuck with it. Visitors centre and tour, here I come!

I got inside and out of the wind, made contact with my generous host for the night (Chris – he’s an engineer working on the SALT to get it operational again) and then got settled at his place on the hill, just a few hundred metres from the telescopes. A very special opportunity this!

2pm came and lunch for staff was over, so Chris headed to work and I headed for my 14:30 tour… which was very good. I am a little disappointed that one doesn’t get to see more of the ‘workings’, but I can also understand… as the SALT alone is USD 32-million!

Winds up top were constantly above 50 km/h, and it was difficult to hold the camera steady… so I hope I got some ok shots.

Chris is about to finish work, so we’ll see what we’re going to do tonight – he’s talking of going into Sutherland for dinner… but we shall see. Sadly night tours and stargazing on the hill is only Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, so even if the wind dies down a little I won’t get to look up at the heavens tonight. Can I persuade Chris to let me stay another day?






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