Ray Chaplin solo walk from Cape Town to Beit Bridge

Posted on 31 January 2010

After a very slow start at Witput, I finally got underway and for the first little bit I felt like a spy who had been captured and was being tortured or interrogated with a spotlight in the face. Damn! White farm roads are weird and cruel! Having lost my sunglasses, the reflection off the road killed me and I struggled until I reached the tar again.

Once back on the N12 I made good time, but took regular breaks so that I didn’t do any further damage and to enjoy the surroundings a little more. I decided that each rest stop along the road needed to be frequented, so each stop I pulled in, filled my bottles, ate something, and put my legs up for a little bit.

There’s loads of roadworks along the N12 at the moment, and as I arrived at the one stop/go (which I don’t normally stop at) a guy climbed out of his car – a very laiden car. He had is phone in hand, taking pics as I approached. The passenger door then opened and his partner (sorry, not sure if GF or wife or what) said hi. Great couple and we chatted a bit. They’re heading to Pretoria to settle there… having been abroad for a few years. We said farewells as the sign changed to GO and they disappeared at pace.

I trudged forth, slowly making my way along, passing all the Anglo Boer War sites because there are simply no gates to gain access to them. Very upsetting!

As I took another rest stop, a family pulled in (having passed me and done a u-turn) and came to chat. They presented me with a cold Coke and were on their way again. Very nice of them!

I continued along, and started looking for a camp site as the day drew to a close. Sadly nothing really presented itself. I saw a farm in the distance and made my way there, but sadly the farmer denied my request for a small patch of ground. So over that hill I went and saw several farm houses and sign boards close to the road.

The first one I arrived at was Enslin, which had a sign outside about quad biking and off-road tracks. I called the number and asked if I could open the gate and just camp off the road. “No problem” was the reply and I hurried inside. But the road was too narrow and the grass too long for me to pitch my tent safely, so I pressed on a little and soon a quad bike approached with three occupants. It was Kobie, the owner, his daughter and Andre, a friend. Kobie invited me to join them at the house for potjie, and to stay in one of the guest cottages. Awesome!

On my way to the house, I saw my first live snake of the journey – a Puffadder! Tootsie nearly collided but thankfully some swift action resulted in a wide berth and us coming away safely. We had a good evening on the farm and I then slept like the dead… waking this morning, and simply rolling over again and going back to sleep. I was gone!

They invited me for brekkie too, which was awesome! Double brekkie can never be rejected! And then, after a quick dip in the pool and some photos, I hit the road again.

Sadly the weather had moved in and there were several large thunderstorms in the area – it was just a matter of time before I got nailed. I don’t mind rain, but rain driven in sideways by a super strong wind is not my idea of a pleasant walk… especially when wearing a poncho! Grrr… I hate this thing! Will be very glad to get rid of it in Kimberley and get a proper rain jacket!

I arrived in Modder Rivier and visited some War sites – but sadly they’re neglected and generally gone to ruin. The blockhouse that was used to protect the bridge across the Riet River, along with one of the other buildings there, are actually being lived in… with the door from the one place missing most of the wood, which you can see has been burned as fire wood inside the place. Scary! That’s our heritage people – preserve it!

As I arrived in the town I decided I needed chocolate, and ended up having a burger and chips, and then a chocolate. Both went down very well, and I continued on, with more rain, fortunately now a little softer.

I turned off the N12 and headed along a gravel road to Magersfontein – just waiting for the monster storm to hit me. And boy did it hit me! I was absolutely nailed by it! It got so bad that I stopped, crouched on my haunches with my back to the wind and started saying my good-byes! It was crazy!

While I can’t say for certain as visibility was terrible, I think a tree about 10-15 m away from me got hit my lightning! I stayed in one place and just hoped for the best, getting drenched in the process. I did, however, manage to get some video – so that should be pretty interesting to watch.

Once that lifted a little, I pressed forth… along the now very muddy road. The going was tough and slow but I reach the Magersfontein Battlefield and found shelter at the entrance pay booth. And, that is exactly where I am sitting right now… and looks like I will be spending my night.

The road is flooded in the direction I came from, and the direction I am heading… there are Puffadders out here (saw another one earlier, also a near collission) and I ain’t take my chances!

Tomorrow I hit Kimberley…






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