Ray Chaplin solo walk from Cape Town, South Africa to Beit Bridge, Zimbabwe

Posted on 27 January 2010

It certainly is scary that four weeks ago I set off from Cape Point, and today I set off from Britstown, some 913 km later. What an incredible journey it has been up until now, and every day brings new challenges, new people into my life and new experiences. And thanks must go to all of you too, for reading the posts, sending me messages, phoning me at random times to make sure I am still walking and haven’t just a ride on the nearest donkey.

I woke this morning after a good night at the Smartt B&B in Britstown, kindly organised by my new friend (and partner in crime for a future adventure I’ve been thinking of) Kyle. Slowly I gathered my things, all my wet stuff needing to go on the outside of Tootsie in a make-shift washing line. The shoes were priority because, while they are fading fast, the other pair with me is well passed the expiry date and could probably walk to Kimberley themselves, because I believe there is a baby ecosystem developing inside.

Following tourist guides and advice from others, I headed for the church and museums. Sadly the church was locked and the museums are currently closed as the municipality hasn’t finished the restoration work on the buildings. Great! So off I headed to buy bread and some powder drink mixes, and then as I passed the Transkaroo Country Lodge I thought I’d better stop and take a look, because it looks pretty nice.

And boy was I right! Damn! What an awesome place! One day, when I am responsible and have a fixed job that pays well, I want my house to be like that place… awesome! I couldn’t restrain myself, so I sat down on a couch in the dining room and enjoyed a pot of tea while I read Time magazine, listening to music that reminded me of Vida.

As I was leaving (sadly, could easily have sat there all day… and lazed in the swimming pool) the tannie looking after the Lodge while the owners are away came to chat. We stood (not my first choice) and chatted for a good hour. I made my move and left, heading out of town and northwards towards Strydenburg.

The road was fairly hilly… no wait, it was very hilly. Left, right, up, down, up, right, up, down, up, up down…. and so it went for the first 15 km or so. Nothing too steep, just enough to work on my tired legs and brain. I decided I’d take my lunch [and sun escapism] break at 20 km… a good half way point for the day, as I was hoping to do 40km if the heat wasn’t too intense and the legs held.

And then I saw a sign saying there was a farmstall and caravan park 2 km ahead. Ok, so lunch break would be at 21 km… I didn’t mind much, but my skin was on fire from the sun. Despite the sunscreen and UV-rated clothing, I have some very interesting tan lines!

I stopped, did my natural thing and then enjoyed a cold drink and an ice-cream in the shade… mmmmmmm… what luxury. But business needed to be conducted to resolve my soaking from yesterday so I whipped out Nettie and fired away on the keyboard… and while not completely resolved, things are in motion to keep me dry north of Kimberley. More about that once all is finalised.

Feeling a little more human and with daylight hours rapidly marching past, I set off again and was now keeping an eye open for a suitable camp site. Anything from 30 km onwards would do.

Next thing Charl stopped (well, drove passed then reversed to come chat) and offered me a place to stay… but it was a further 15 km, and I was already on 29 km! OUCH! Another big day…

While the heat and distance was rapidly getting to me, I pressed on knowing that hard work was going to be rewarded and I could hydrate properly as I had sufficient water with me and I could refill on the farm. At about 5:30, Charl pulled up to find out if I was doing ok and whether or not I wanted a lift to the farm. So I told him about the ‘unbroken footsteps’ rule and after a little explaining he said he could drop me off at exactly the same spot to continue my journey.

As tempting as it was, I chose to walk the last 80 min to the farm and make the distance, which I did, as the sun was setting. Then, my nightmare began! Corrugations on the farm road! Fighting Tootsie as she bounced around like a hyperactive kid on a jumping castle, I slowly made the last 600 m to the farmhouse, where I saw Charl walking down to come meet me.

I quickly got settled in and had a bath, before sitting chatting with my generous hosts. Dinner was awesome, and I really enjoyed the prickly pear – can’t remember ever eating it so it may just be a new addition to my diet.

They start WAY too early in the day for me, so headed to be while I started writing this dispatch… but I soon fell asleep, hence why I am finishing it in the morning.

Today, Strydenburg is the target – where Charl has arranged with someone to meet me and show me around. It’s about 35km from theirr gate, so a good day’s walk but nothing too bad.

Looks like I’ll fall just short of 1000 km today, but that’ll be a great milestone to cross on Thursday!






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