Charley Boorman in Africa, day 7

Posted on 23 August 2010

Desert dunes to Atlantic celebration

Not even the spartan, unfinished, military-style huts at the Namib Naukluft Lodge, kept me from sleep. Not surprising really.

Refueling at Solitaire today (sorry to miss the apple pie), we were off on a short run at a mere 290 kilometres to Swakopmund. Onwards then, through the Namib Naukluft Park taking in both the Gaub and Kusieb passes as well as crossing the Tropic of Capricorn. Although this road, the C14, is the main road to Walvis Bay and Swakopmund – it is by no means a walk in the park on a motorbike.

I had one of my biggest wobbles yet, and at 110 kilometres an hour the adrenaline kick relates almost immediately to opening the throttle. It’s become instinctive, the only way to control a soft sand slide is to open the throttle and ride it through.

Initially it goes against all your instincts as a tar rider, but essential to learn if you are to conquer sand. This is a training ground no more, this is as real as it gets.

Passing traffic can also be difficult as long snow-white plumes billow for miles in relatively wind free conditions. Coaches are the worst as they travel at speed and can be difficult to leapfrog until you get a long straight stretch. Not difficult here. Then its gear down, choose your line and pin the throttle open. I glanced up (briefly) while passing a bus saw faces at the windows with eyes like saucers as this apparition flew past like a desert djinn. They couldn’t see but I had a huge grin!

Both Charley and Ross are on hand to give instruction and helpful advice that comes in handy if you are struggling with a particular aspect. ‘Doc Martin’, our biking MD, mentioned to Ross that he felt he was riding on marbles while cornering, which understandably, was a bit unsettling. Ross pointed out some of the physics and showed body alignment aspects. That’s all it took for another ‘lightbulb’ moment and another confident stride forward.

The last gasp of the journey today was in near blizzard conditions, sand though, not snow. A howling crosswind lashed red Namib sand across the road as bikes angled into this invisible force. The temperature tumbled as, through the sand, we glimpsed the Altantic Ocean ahead looking beautifully blue and benign as the wind howled at our backs.

There was only one thing for it, coffee and cake. I remembered a small shop below the Woermann Haus from my last trip here for Getaway, where we tucked out of the wind and relived the day with fabulous coffee and – apple pie. Conversation turned to tyres as they are beginning to take a bit of strain with punctures sure to become more commonplace as the combination of road conditions takes its toll on them.

We now have a day off to look forward to at the fabulous Rossmund Lodge. Before that though, we all have one last appointment at the Tug Restaurant. Celebrating Charley’s birthday, tomorrow.






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