Charley Boorman in Africa, day 6

Posted on 23 August 2010

Aus about face

Today was billed as the longest day of the trip with a straight 470km stretch into the Namib Naukluft Park and a quick fuel and coffee stop in Helmeringhausen. Well that was the plan. How could it possibly go wrong?

I have to take the responsibility for this one on the chin. I was lead bike for our little trio, with Dave Edmead and Nathan East bringing up the rear. Our GPS units are devilishly simple little pre-programmed devices and entirely reliable. Select the relevant day and destination and just follow the little pink route. Simple enough except after our brief stop after the first 162 km, it led us a merry dance.

We weren’t the only ones to be misdirected, however, we (read I) were the only ones who didn’t twig that the route was gradually leading us away from or destination. To be fair all the roads look the same here. Dry, dusty with the same ever-changing, never changing landscape. It’s a bit mind numbing.

I eventually twigged, but by then we had little option but to continue to route and into Aus, for fuel and a quick war party. The boys were great and took the news of a turn around stoically. There was simply no other way and no other route to take, so after a quick text message to the tour group to save any concerns, we turned around to retrace 100kms with the GPS units now reading a destination some 500km away. Further than when we left this morning!

You simply can’t rush this kind of thing otherwise a poor situation turns worse. We stopped 100kms later for a breather and some water, and then pressed on to refuel at Betta an hour later. The up side was that the roads were clear of traffic and the afternoon light was fantastic. It’s that soft yellow light that I doubt any of the rest of the group had the time to appreciate, but this light was fading, fast.

Clearly Sesirem, and the dunes, were no longer a reasonable detour (90kms or so) so we deleted this waypoint from the Garmens, and our total distance dropped measurably. However, it was still a big ask of two bikers who were new to off-road and with only a two day course in the Welsh countryside behind them.

The destination distance slowed with our speed as the light dimmed and the computers turned to night mode. A beautiful, blood red sun played hide and seek from behind remote mountains and hills before bidding us a last farewell, leaving us in the abrupt darkness so typical of Africa. My GS1200 Adventure’s headlights were now on full beam at the front, sweeping the road for hidden dangers which were pointed out with either full hazard lights, (mainly soft sand), or left and right indicators for other hidden obstructions.

Herds of Springbok blinked at us from the roadside as the ride turned into an impromptu game drive, and pair of jackals skittered away into the darkness as we slewed through the last of some heavy sand. Speeds dropped further with both Dave and Nathan doggedly following my lights in conditions we learned later some of the daylight riders failed to negotiate.

The final kilometer into the camp was almost the most difficult as we were all dog-tired after a marathon 695kilometres and an eleven hour day. Nathan looked numb, but was smiling (I think) which, considering his tumble the day before, was outstanding. Dave just had a huge grin. He was more worried that the support vehicle was going to arrive to pick them up before he could complete the day.

I’d ride with either of these lads anywhere.






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