Searching for sunfish in Bali

Posted on 16 May 2011

Arriving in Bali, the gateway to the Indonesian archipelago was exhilarating. After months of anticipation, gazing out the plane’s window upon the picture perfect coastline was a like a dream come true. The infamous rolling waves breaking against the limestone cliffs, riddled with lush palms viewed from above, is an image hard to forget. However, it wasn’t this sight that got the adrenaline pumping. Unbeknownst to me, the runway at Denpasar Airport extends into the sea. For a moment I thought we were going to end up in the drink as the surfers glided along just under our wing.

The extreme humidity, coupled with intense bargaining with our taxi driver, was just the start of a massive culture shock. We negotiated the organised chaos on the roads and headed for the quieter Bingin Beach on the south coast’s Bukit Peninsula to unwind and catch some waves before heading off in search of sunfish.

A few days of surfing left us itching to get underwater, so it was back into the Bali bustle, to organise our tickets with Perama Tours and Travel to the island of Nusa Lembongan. This tiny island lies closest to Bali’s east coast and is a short ferry trip from the mainland. Upon arrival, our hearts collapsed as we passed two enormous floating pontoons crowded with hundreds of people. We later realized that this was a saviour to the island as it gave the opportunity of snorkelling to the masses in a safe, contained environment. We waded through the water, secured our beach front accommodation and set off in search of our chosen dive centre. Bali Diving Academy made an immediate impression on us with well-maintained equipment and knowledgeable local dive guides. After a thorough orientation briefing, including an outline of which sites we could possibly dive, where we might see the elusive mola mola (sunfish) and the expected diving conditions, our hopes were somewhat dubious. We decided that a couple of Bintangs, the local beer, would put our minds at ease as we caught up on some much needed rest.

The following morning we launched our fibreglass motorboat and set off on a day trip to dive in the channel between Lembongan and its neighbouring island Nusa Penida. We splashed in at Toyapakeh, an amazing drift dive at the base of a cliff face that plunges into the ocean. This steep wall is densely populated with corals, sponges and colourful fish, creating a visual feast. Toyapakeh is also an ideal snorkelling opportunity for non-divers as the primary ledge lies only at 10 m. After a lengthy dive we surfaced and were impressed to see our vigilant skipper waiting just beside us. We enjoyed a welcome cup of tea and a choice between nasi or mie goreng, Indonesia’s staple of fried rice or noodles.
Our next dive was to be at Crystal Bay and we were assured again that mola mola could possibly be lurking beneath these waters. With over 16 other dive boats there at the time, we highly doubted it. Anyway, we took the plunge into what seemed like an ice bath and joined the highway of bubble makers. We came across many nudibranchs and impressive table corals which kept us distracted from the surrounding frenzy of action and distinct lack of sunfish. A little disappointed we returned to the boat, among the infectiously jovial locals. Back at the shop, all our gear was taken care of as we ripped through the fish guides impossibly trying to recall all of the species we had seen throughout the day.

As dawn broke we could hear the rumble of the waves just off our doorstep. The swell had picked up dramatically over night and after a hearty fruit salad, our fears of being unable to access the famous Manta Point were confirmed. Instead, we were given an opportunity to dive a nearby reef that afternoon at mid tide. The reef was called Blue Corner and was deemed only for the more experienced diver as it slopes off to beyond 50 m and attracts strong currents. This was right up our alley and also meant I could squeeze in a low-tide surf at Shipwrecks, a hollow, right-hand break. Relieved to be in one piece and charged with the oceans energy, it was dive time. We negotiated the channels between the seaweed patches, out into the deep blue. One could not help feeling this was a special dive as the dive master silently blessed the ocean with a rice and flower offerings while praying, as is Hindu tradition. By the speed the offering took off we could tell the current was ripping. We descended upon another wall dropping into the abyss. Giant sea fans protruded all over. Then, in the distance, gently hovering against the current, shimmering silver disks unveiled themselves. We were at 40 m and the ocean-going sunfish were here, waving their fins vertically. There were around six of them, queuing for the the services of cleaner wrasse and butterfly fish – fantastic! We surfaced, basking in serenity with occasional outbursts of joy. That’s what diving is all about. Mission accomplished.






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