Moods of South Luangwa, Zambia

Posted on 9 November 2011

We left Chifunda community camp early morning and headed in the direction of South Luangwa. The 230km journey down south became one of the highlights of the tour so far. For almost 40km we cycled through an old Mopani forest with very little undergrowth. The atmosphere was cool and calm as light seeped through the treetops. The bird calls were spectacular throughout the day. Never would we have guessed that we would experience thriving bird life in such a monotonous habitat. Racket-tailed rollers did tumbling displays right above our heads. Later the morning cicadas screeched so loud that it was sometimes difficult to have a conversation while cycling. We will always associate this ride with the distinct and constant calling of woodland kingfishers. Occasionally we cycled along fresh elephant footprints but only encountered one family at the end of the day.

Later the day we cycled through small villages and many more stretches of Mopani Forest. Tsetse flies became a problem. Wherever they can find a spot to bite you, they bite: on your shoulder blades, your bum, legs, face, arms, hands and even on the very tips of your fingers. We dressed in double layers of clothing and looked rather comical. Hendrik even pulled an insect net over his head. What must the locals been thinking when they saw us?! Even insect repellent did not prevent our bodies from being covered with itching bites. On the positive side, Tsetse flies are a great motivation to keep you going for as long as possible, as fast as possible.

We cycled to the camp at the gate of Luambe National Park. At the camp the scouts (anti-poaching unit), offered their help over and over again. They swept a rondavel and offered it to us to stay in for the night. When it started to drizzle they got some canvas and covered the roof for waterproofing. They were so friendly and professional in their service. The following morning we cycled through the park in between dry rivers and pools. We constantly had to be on the lookout for elephants but did not encounter any. Judged by the many dry dung balls and footprints everywhere to be seen, there must be a healthy population of ‘ellies’ after some good rains in the area. Despite very little surface water at present, it is still exceptionally beautiful. We felt privileged to cycle where elephants walk and were thrilled by the wild atmosphere in the park. Constant sightings of antelope and warthog and the numerous footprints in the clay soils testify of the great density of wildlife in the park.

In the afternoon we cycled through South Luangwa Game Management Area. The vastness of the dry plains was beautiful in a different way. Dead trees in their hundreds covered the earth like needles pointing to the sky. The road surface was partly sandy, partly rough and bumpy. It was tiring to cycle across long stretches of dried out cotton-clay soils. Many Zambian cyclists cycle through these parks on a daily basis. We stuck to their cycling paths which meander all across the actual road. At one point we had to cross a warm water spring. In the marshy area close by we saw a flock of crowned cranes, over 150 birds strong. Pukus were grazing around them and white-fronted lapwings ran in between. In the far distance a few Thornicroft giraffe walked passed. At that moment we realized that we haven’t seen any of these species before we started our cycling trip.

Our excitement ran high to meet Mike and Jenny Waterhouse from Marula Lodge. Jenny invited us to pay a visit to their lodge after reading our blog on the Getaway web page. We were welcomed by a saddle billed stork and Ground Hornbills as we cycled to the lodge entrance. Marula Lodge is situated in the Garden of Eden on the bank of the Luangwa river. It has an open dining room and a fantastic view over the Luangwa river.

The first evening we watched hippos walk past on the opposite bank. Believe it or not, but yesterday morning a leopard walked past. Yellow baboons went ballistic in the tree tops, shaking branches and shouting alarm calls. Last night around dinner table a family of elephant appeared like phantoms from nowhere. Suddenly they were just there, within touching distance of us. They are known to pay a visit to the lodge on a regular basis. The matriarch was not worried at all when her tiny little calf was feeding two metres away from Riki. And as suddenly as they appeared, they disappeared, only to pay another visit later that evening. Staying at this lodge is so entertaining. As we are writing this blog another family of 12 elephants is crossing the river over to our side. A water monitor was chasing the baboons over the lawn earlier and a green water snake caught a frog and swallowed it while we were watching. One of the common residents in the garden is a collared palm thrush. We feel like we are going to miss out on something great the moment we walk back to our rooms. That means we are spending most of our time during the day with Mike and Jenny on the river bank, drinking tea.

We joined David for two game drives in South Luangwa National Park. Wow! David has such a wide and detailed bush knowledge. We thought that he must have years of experience. Only after the first game drive did we learn that he has only recently qualified as a guide and that our morning drive was his first official game drive. We were so impressed with his guiding skills. On our two game drives we fell in love with South Luangwa Park. It has so many moods. Dark grey-blue clouds fill the skies in the afternoons. Rumbling thunder echoes over the fields before the break of a rain storm. Animal activity and bird life is around every corner. We saw lions on both drives (South Luangwa is known for good cat sightings). Visiting South Luangwa was a dramatic wildlife experience. It is definitely one of our favourite game reserves we have visited so far.

Mike and Jenny made us feel so much at home. Right now we don’t want to think about leaving Marula Lodge soon. Our compliments to the chef: the food is great, divine, superb! If you plan to visit South Luangwa National Park, do not drive past Marula Lodge. It offers anything from self-catering to full board and the prices are very reasonable. We better go and see what wildlife is at the river right now …

 

Marula Lodge:

Tel +26-0-216-246073, www.marulalodgezambia.com,

South Luangwe National Park:

Tel +27-0-83-960-3391 , email [email protected], www.south-luangwa.com

 

 

 






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