Waiting for the monsoon in Zanzibar

Posted on 5 March 2010

Right now in Zanzibar, the weather is oppressive. With only three weeks or so to go before the big monsoon rains, the heat and humidity is building up to its grand finale. For us humans it can be uncomfortable – we slump in chairs like damp dishcloths, and when we stir ourselves to swim in the sea, it is the temperature of a warm bath – but the birds are full of joy. Desperately excited at the approaching torrents of life-giving rain, they are flapping around in the trees like feathery half tornados. When it is as hot as Zanzibar is in March and April, many people don’t feel like eating much, but the birds’ honeyed songs at least feed the soul.

The monsoon rains are what helps Zanzibar to be an island of plenty. They help with the harvests and provide sustenance to Zanzibar’s lush interiors at their most parched. The monsoon means flooded streets in Zanzibar’s Stone Town – confused tourists in flip flops wade knee deep through eddies of dirty water – but they also bring town to life. Relieved after several months of heavy heat and clothes that don’t want to dry, everyone is elated that the heavy weather is lifting, crops are getting nourished, and the refreshing cool season is approaching. Viewed from Google Earth, town must look like a strange psychedelic field of mushrooms as umbrellas pop open everywhere.

In tourist terms, March, April and May are when many Zanzibar aficionados come. The islands are refreshingly free of mass tourism, and you can see the sights without bumping into hordes of other people. You see local life as it really is, and often benefit from bargain prices.






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