Monkeying about in the subtropical Wild Coast’s Port St. Johns

Posted on 12 January 2011

Basking in a hammock enjoying the light drizzle in the stuffy, humid Port St. Johns climate was a noteworthy high on my summer break. The Jungle Monkey backpacker’s lodge was vibey and chilled, with an omnipresent homely atmosphere.

Home for the week was a safari tent pitched on a deck nestled by the forest of ferns. I could easily get used to feet in bed slippers over the mandatory cuppa with the area newspaper, overlooking the muddy river streaming into the sea.

It took two days driving to get there from Cape Town. We reckoned it was safer to spend a night in Port Elizabeth since we were in no real hurry anyway. After checking that it was in fact the windy city that smells of sulphur and not my travelling companion letting off some malodorous gas, we had a good night’s sleep then headed off for our final destination.

The drive makes for some scenic pleasures as the vegetation changes from the Western Cape’s sparse, low lying fynbos to the Transkei’s more dramatic tropical density of heavy green trees thickly coating the hillsides.

Easy to find, Jungle Monkey is a right off the main drag and once parked, there isn’t much need for your car anymore. Port St Johns is a small town with beaches in walking distance from town and friendly enough locals (not jaded with city paranoia) with whom to thumb a ride to those further away parts. Worth driving your own car to is the air landing strip on Mount Thesiger, where you can catch the most humbling views of Pondoland to watch the sun set behind the rolling green hills of the Eastern Cape. Or simply catch a ride with the Jungle Monkey crew who frequently haul a bottle of sorts up there to appreciate its calming beauty.

The friendly troop, who all seem to have a bit of Jimi Hendrix in their blood, are happy to offer some tips on where to go and what to see. We hiked up to Eagles Nest which gives a great view of the town and the flanking coastline, which while beautiful was brown from all the rainfall. The tropical trail is scattered with exotic yellow, red and black spiders whose spiky form alone act as a defense tactic. While casually waving away spider webs, Jay-Jay, who led the hike, taught us about the indigenous ferns that the locals know as dog medicine and monkey bush, among others with similarly interesting names.

The evenings were lit by a bonfire, with the Jungle Monkey staff jamming on the little stage close to the bar by the pool. They’re quite a talented bunch who really set a mood with their jazzy tunes swept in from base guitar to bongo drums, inviting the crowd to play along.

We often dream of the ideal holiday soaking up sun on white beach sand gazing across a mass of crystal blue surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation. Then very sensibly imagine it impossible with post recession budgets. But what we don’t realize is that it’s quite close by. The Eastern Cape is rich with similar spots, that won’t rip through shallow pockets.

With my hand absently stroking Spikor, Jungle Monkey’s dinosaur sized St Bernard, and listening to a rendition of Jackal Man while my feet dangled in the soft water, I knew that my holiday was in full swing.

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Accommodation at Jungle Monkey, Port St. Johns allows for a pocket friendly stay. Rates run per room and a double room in peak season goes for as little as R280. Other than the luxury safari tent, there are dorms, comfy little garden cabins, double and triple rooms and lots of green camp spots.

For more information visit The Jungle Monkey website.
Call: +27 (0)47 564 1517
Email: [email protected]






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