Paternoster, Western Cape: what a gem!

Posted on 14 October 2010

Visiting Paternoster has been on ‘The List’ for a while. I drew up the ‘The List’ when first moving to the Western Cape and it includes a collection of places to see in CT and the surrounding areas. With a full time job and limited finances, it has taken a while to get through these items. And wow, am I glad that this quaint little village has finally been crossed off! What a special, charming retreat and a place that I will definitely be revisiting when I need peace and tranquility!

Driving up on a Friday evening after work, my boyfriend and I arrived as the sun was setting to find our delightful little cottage on the beach on the south side of Paternoster. (We booked through a very useful site called www.stayinpaternoster.co.za, which lists many B&B’s, guesthouses and hotels in the village with prices and booking services.)

After a quick unpack/shower in the cottage, we made our way to the Paternoster Hotel, which we had heard interesting things about. Walking in, we soon saw why. The entire ceiling was filled with past patrons bras and underwear hanging colourfully on display. I was greeted by a fellow bar attendee, “Sal jy nie jou broeke daar sit nie” to which I replied with red cheeks “Nee, dankie!” (Some of the only Afrikaans I know!). We were entertained by the crude messages fading on the bar walls while having a drink, but soon intimidated by the Afrikaans (and our lack of it) we moved on. Just around the corner is The Noisy Oyster, a seafood restaurant that lives up to its good reviews. The outside area is full of character with lanterns and warming mini-fires and the service is friendly. The sole was delicious, as was the fillet. Note: It is best to book a table as it is often full, especially on weekends.

The next morning we awoke early for a long walk on the main beach spotting some young surfers along the way. We practically had the whole beach to ourselves, although it was way too cold and early to swim! This was followed by a visit to Oep ve Koep for a well deserved breakfast. Oep Ve Koep is a bistro style café in the garden outside Die Winkel op Paternoster (one of the few shops in the village which sells lovely homemade farm style bread, jams and other homemade wares). They offer a variety of food at very reasonable prices. The Oep Ve Koep breakfast was our favourite with perfectly done eggs, bacon, and the best farm bread with homemade strawberry jam. The service was very friendly and the coffee kept coming! We loved it so much we went back twice! The chef, Kobus is on Twitter; follow him @SardineToast for further updates and recipes!

Tittiesbaai (translated it means Boobs Bay – yes it really is called that!) is just down the road and is definitely worth a visit. Based in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, you are allowed to camp right on the beach (there are shower and ablution facilities) The beach is very quiet, and a perfect swimming spot for kids (it was a very quick swim in my case- the Atlantic Ocean is freezing!). Take your book, some picnic snacks and enjoy!

The rest of the weekend was spent enjoying the late afternoon sun on our patio and watching the sunset over our own little beach.

Some things to watch out for/remember when visiting:

• One thing you need to watch out for in Paternoster are fisherman who try to sell you crayfish at cheap prices on the side of the road. Many of these fisherman don’t have the legal permits to do this, meaning you could be charged with a hefty fine if caught. Rather support the locals by purchasing shell decorations, strawberries and wood from street sellers.

• Paternoster doesn’t have many shops, so if staying in a self-catering place like we did, make sure to shop before hand (we forgot) or stop off in Vredenburg on the way (about a 10 min drive from Paternoster). The village also has limited bank services, so rather draw cash beforehand.

• Definitely take a camera. Paternoster provides some ideal photo opportunities. From the rusty fishing boats on the main beach, to the stark white beaches and wild beach scenery, you will want to document your trip.

• Remember to pick up a little souvenir of your trip. We picked up some very cute tin camping mugs (one saying “I love Tittiesbaai” – where else would one see one of those!) These can be used as little pot plant holders, as seen in the gardens of Oep Ve Koep.

Now what else is there to cross off that list of mine?!






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