Ray Chaplin solo walk from Cape Town to Beit Bridge

Posted on 7 January 2010

After getting away pretty much on time, my first stop was Pick n Pay to stock up on supplies for the coming weeks, as there is not much between Ceres and Kimberley in terms of shops. The stop took longer than hoped but I still managed to get out of town early’ish and made good time over the first 10km or so.

It was here that the fun started and I had to climb yet another pass – that’s the third in three days! A little leg weary, I took strain initially but got into a good rhythm and kept going, enjoying the views as I climbed higher. Seeing the back of the mountains I saw from De Doorns during my first attempt was pretty special and I enjoyed seeing water on all the farms. While not quite the Karoo, it did mean that there is water out here.

Going through my playlist to find the right songs to help me up the hill, somehow Ricky Martin did the trick. Why do I have Ricky Martin in the first place? Well, to get me through tough climbs – it makes me laugh and shake my ass.

Two 4x4s stopped a little ahead of me and the drivers seemed to do a run around and next thing they were off again. But the one did a U-turn just passed me and offered me a lift to the top… which I declined of course. Just further than that I reached the flat – aaaah, amazing view back across the valley and such a reward for a good climb.

Feeling a little broken, I took it easy and made a few calls to friends to say Hi, mixed up some more drinks and set off again – looking forward to the views on the descent. Sadly I was mistaken, and it turns out I was only about a third of the way up the climb! OUCH! This was going to hurt!

My speed dropped drastically and even Ricky Martin wasn’t helping to move me forward. The pass is extremely busy and the road is narrow – so pushy Tootsie on the tar, while much easier than the rough stuff on the side, was not all common. I picked my times with slow trucks and did what I could before they caught me and then moved aside, cursing their existence.

Another false plateau came and went way to quickly, and I made a few short stops to let the heart settle and my mind adjust. And then I saw it – the sign for the top of the pass! Woohoo! Magic! Instantly I had energy again and my speed picked up…

I took a few snaps of the sign and me standing in front of it, then pushed to find a decent rest spot which I soon found under some big trees just outside a farm entrance. Wiithin minutes of sitting down (well, more like reclining), a 4×4 pulled over and asked if I was ok. Turns out I was sleeping… haha!

It wasn’t long before a farmer with his daughter in the bakkie pulled over to ask what I was doing and where I was heading, because it’s the third time in two days that they’ve passed me. After a brief chat with them I mixed up some more drink and headed off… but was stopped again when a 4×4 came to offer me a lift.

I explained why I couldn’t, so she offered me a place to stay for the night… or, worst case, a cold drink and a chat. So I said I’d definitely pull in for a drink… and she drove off.

Slowly I crept up yet another climb and I was very happy to see the farm entrance off to the right – The Forgotten Highway Manor. I walked in and the staff on the grounds were friendly and all asked if they could help… and then I saw the house. A stunning building, built in 1871 and restored a number of years back.

A guy in a 4×4 was leaving and stopped to offer help, and we bother recognised each – he’d offered me a liftle earlier down the pass. He’s the guy who stopped with another car and then did a U-turn.

He drove off and Stephanie came out to greet me. And awesome house inside and we sat chatting enjoying cold juice. It was then decided, this is where I’m staying for the night. So, she got out the keys for a cottage and got me settled in… before inviting me for dinner.

Turns out she was the other 4×4 her husband had met up with along the pass, as he’d driven over her German Shepherd puppy, Otto, and they were rushing to get it to the vet in Tulbagh. Otto was home already and had a broken leg and a little concussion but would be fine. Lying there with a drip in his leg, he looked like he’d gone 12 rounds with Ali.

Warned against Otto’s security counterpart, I slowly made my way to the main house for dinner. Not seeing Chuck I assumed he was still locked inside as he was earlier in the day because of the plumber being on site.

WRONG! I was soon being hunted by a trained security dog and fortunately I turned just in time to present my left bum – which it quickly took a bite of. DAMN! For a twelve year old dog he has one helluva bit! Stephanie ran out to get Chuck back and couldn’t say sorry enough times. Not her fault, I was warned not go near the house without her or Spring, her husband.

The evening kick-started with some other guests arriving, an South African couple who now live in Thailand. They’re out here researching old graves for a new book they’re working on.

We had an awesome braai for dinner and got chatting about my route ahead. Spring laughed I said I was mad to try the direct road between here and Sutherland. While there are farms if something went wrong, none of the farmers except one are here in summer… and the farm houses are all at least 10km from the road. He’s driven the road many times as he hunts along that stretch and has regularly gone the whole way and back without seeing another vehicle.

Between the heat, predators (yip, they’re lurky I am told) and the lack of support, he’s recommended a slight different route where they are at least farmers should something happen. Turns out the soles of Stephanie’s shoes came off along that stretch last summer… it was THAT hot!

Taking the local knowledge and advice, I’ll be making a minor detour to get to Sutherland.






yoast-primary -
tcat - Expeditions
tcat_slug - expeditions-travel-stories
tcat2 -
tcat2_slug -
tcat_final - travel