Cape Town to Zimbabwe – day one

Posted on 21 December 2012

When the alarm went off at 06h00 I quickly put it on “snooze” mode. I almost did that a second time, but suddenly realized in my sleepy state that it was “the day”. I was actually off on my trip and there was no turning back now!  A quick cup of tea to calm my nerves, a shower to wake up and a few hours later I was hugging my pets goodbye and hitting the road.

I am no longer alone though. I now have a travelling partner in the form of a bear. None other than Getaway’s Trevor. He was doomed to spending the festive holidays sitting on a desk (which is no life for a travel-loving teddy) so I decided to take him along with me (with strict instructions not to lose his hat or shoes). He’s been a great sport so far – he puts up with my shocking singing, agrees with everything I say and is happy to take the blame for missing sandwiches from the padkos stash.  I think we are going to get along just fine.

We (I can say “we” now) drove through the green Hex River Valley covered in vineyards and then into the sunburnt orange and brown Karoo with its sheep and windmills. I couldn’t resist taking the turnoff to a favourite old “haunt” of mine and I am glad I did. As I stepped through the door of the Lairds Arms in Matjiesfontein I heard a familiar voice, “It’s show time!”  After hugs all round, Johnnie promptly settled down at the piano to sing me a song. We chatted and laughed and I also found out that one of the staff members is getting married on Monday. What is it with that town? Every time I go there someone is getting married! We celebrated with a Coca-Cola (Trevor had my beer as he’s not driving), I promised to return (and get married) and then we were on our  way.

Travelling along the N1 was a fairly easy affair, but filled with hurtling lorries and other vehicles trying to overtake them. I soon learnt that if there are three lorries in a row on the other side of the road, move over as far left as you can as there is bound to be a car darting out behind them. I was fascinated with the Driver Alert sections  – basically grids in the road generally used to slow you down. There are 15 of these grids in the Driver Alert section by the way, I counted (as one does when driving for hours)! The yellow line is also grid-like so if you start swerving off the road (to avoid cars overtaking lorries on the other side) you’ll know about it! Great idea though and I am sure has saved many a life.

 A late lunch-stop at Travalia Guest Farm just outside of Three Sisters was just what we needed. It’s a popular padstal with accommodation and has all the usual farm stall fare. They also have some interesting variations of Witblitz and Brandywein! The couch was comfy and they serve delicious milkshakes – double thick and decorated with hundreds and thousands! Enough to bring out the kid in anyone (except they tend to get stuck in the straw I have to confess).  The toasted sandwich hit the spot and then we hit the road for the last 60 kilometres to Victoria West.  Before turning onto the N12 we filled up with fuel at the Shell Ultra City. This is a good one for families – there’s a Steers and an impressive kids’ playground.

The N12 was bliss compared to the N1. Not a single lorry in sight. In fact not many other cars either. Just me, Trevor, blue skies with fluffy clouds and giant cactuses! Just like the movies!

So here we are for the night, at Kingwill’s Guesthouse in Victoria West. The main focus is the Karoo Deli, a charming padstal and restaurant. I am smitten with it. However, I was also offered a glass of wine as I arrived, so I perhaps I am biased. But it has all sorts of fascinating things on the shelves, the décor is country-chic (think rusted tin baths, 70’s signage, cushions with Karoo baked beans, windmills, ornamental birdcages and tin cups) and the fridges are laden with homemade treats that we all love (lemon meringue, peppermint crisp tart, brownies, muffins and delicious-looking things in Afrikaans that I can’t pronounce).

They also serve buffet breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Buffet dinner tonight was springbok fillet pieces in a peppercorn sauce, a tomato bredie, sweet and sour pork, a rice and vegetable bake and various salads. For once my eyes were bigger than my tummy and I couldn’t finish what I had crammed onto my tin plate (Trevor ate all the padkos sandwiches so he skipped dinner). If dinner is anything to go by, I can’t wait for breakfast shortly!

Before dinner I decided to stretch my legs and took a walk around the town. I went down dusty roads past ancient walls, got barked at by the town’s dogs (nearly every house has one) and decided that if I ever win the millions I am buying one of the houses and restoring it. They are beautiful! I loved the old hotel (it’s being restored thankfully) and felt a tinge of sadness when I came across the Apollo Theatre (the first and only remaining Art Deco cinema in the country) which could do with a loving touch.  The sky was filled with darting Lesser Kestrels who come here every November all the way from Russia. Most people simply pass through this Northern Cape town en-route to Kimberley, but the kestrels stay here from November to January. Perhaps we could learn something from them. Small towns like Victoria West often get overlooked when one is in a mad rush to get somewhere. If I could I would definitely stay another day.

But alas, I cannot stay. Today is going to be a long day. Trevor and I go all the way to Mafikeng. Will let you know how that goes!

Follow me on Twitter, @Rachel_CapeTown (#ZimPilgrim), email me at [email protected],  or keep an eye on my blogs on the Getaway website.






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