Exploring the West Coast haven of Paternoster

The clouds hug the ground as we make our way up the West Coast. The sleek surface under the tyres of the vehicle throws up a fine spray as we swiftly cover the 150 km from Cape Town. We break the journey only once for a short stop at a One Stop convenience centre where the bleak weather does not hold much promise for a sunny weekend break. Before we know it we are in Paternoster surrounded by newly built whitewashed cottages and we easily find our way to Baywatch Self-Catering Cottages. Per kind favour of a good friend, we have the use of a charming six-sleeper cottage a stone’s throw from a pristine white beach.

A fisherman’s net

Once settled in we head off to explore the tiny hamlet. The little white cottages hug the coastline and thankfully are halted by the gates of the Columbine Nature Reserve on the southern side. As we drive through this unexplored settlement it becomes obvious that food is high on the agenda in Paternoster. Down almost every little road there is a little restaurant or food emporium just waiting to be investigated. I silently curse myself for not having done some research on which to select. This is going to have to be a potluck exercise.

A five-ton haul of Bokkoms are landed by local fishermen on Paternoster Beach

Friday night we decide to try the Noisy Oyster, but a little blackboard outside the door informs us that the restaurant is full (and we should have heeded the sign that warned us to make reservations). We drive a little further down the road and the next place up is at the Paternoster Hotel which we decide to skip. A few hundred metres further along and we stop at the Skatkis. The restaurant is entirely empty when we arrive but an inviting log fire in the corner beckons us nearer. The menu covers the normal range of restaurant offerings but does not do much to excite the tastebuds. We are at the sea so the decision is to explore seaside fare. Calamari, a Cape delicacy is my choice while my two companions choose sole. The fare is fair, not too exciting, but well prepared. The meal is completed with some very ordinary desserts and a good red wine. As we make our way home the mist is still hanging very low.

A close-up view of part of the catch of bokkoms (harders)

The soft thud of falling rain on the thatch roof of the cottage puts paid to a planned excursion the following morning to the West Coast National Park. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to take photographs of birds in bad light. Instead we spend a little longer in the comfort of a warm bed and decide to take on the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve.

Early morning view over the rocks at Paternoster

The Reserve is only 263 hectares and it would seem is not a popular destination in the winter months. There are great picnic spots set out all along the coastline and the very famous Tietiesbaai lies within its borders. A very grey and misty day ensures that we have the place to ourselves making the selection of sites for photography really easy. The challenge is of course to get the camera to perform in such misty conditions.

View from a picnic site in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve

That evening we head off for the Saffron Restaurant at Abalone Guest House, a five star establishment perched on the side of a slope giving the house a wondrous view across the bay. The attraction is a 5 course tasting menu paired with wines from the Blaauklippen Estate. For the foodies out there, Darren Stewart is a chef of note. The food is impeccably presented and is an absolute joy to eat. From the Potato and Leek soup with a touch of Truffle oil to the miniature Crockenbush (Croquembuche), each course titillates the palate and the pairings of the wine opens up new worlds of taste. We end off the evening with a Blaauwklippen brandy paired with a smooth dark chocolate truffle. The brandy is slightly reminiscent of the sharp tasting Armagnac produced in the vineyards of Gascony. The Saffron Restaurant is proof positive that Paternoster is the foodie capital of the West Coast.

One of the few lighthouses left on the South African Coast at Cape Columbine

Sunday morning brings with it the serenely clear skies and windless conditions that make May such a great time to visit the Cape. The sea spreads out like a large silver lake and only the tiniest of waves break onto the shore. A small rocky outcrop in the middle of the bay has perched on it a group of the endangered Black Oystercatchers. The sunlight dances off the blood red beaks and legs of the birds and the eyes glint in the early morning sun. In a matter of minutes the whole of the bleak weekend is transformed as I am able to capture frame after frame of these seldom seen birds.

Off to the right there is a small fishing boat pulled up onto the shore and a group of fishermen hauling in a net. Further investigation reveals that this is a huge catch and we spend some time watching and photographing five tons of bokkoms being hauled in. In the soft morning light the bay shimmers and shines while we reluctantly leave, acknowledging that we should definitely come back again.

For the intrepid traveller, there is, however a note of caution to extend about this seemingly idyllic destination. Cars and doors must be locked at all times as there apparently is a problem amongst the local youth who have fallen prey to the vagaries of the drug called “tik”. Another anomaly is the sale of fresh crayfish that is for sale on the streets, while the crayfish season is definitely over. There is no sign of Fisheries Inspectors who are tasked with controlling the overfishing of our reserves. There is also no indication for the first-time visitor to the hamlet of when the season is open and therefore the uninformed visitor can innocently fall foul of the law.

Black oystercatchers enjoying the early morning sun

Related Posts

12 sensational Western Cape campsites

30 May 2023

Love camping? So do we. These are some of our favourite Western Cape campsites, our... read more

Rewilding Mozambique: Sábiè Game Park

25 May 2023

We went on a recce to Sábiè Game Park, which is setting the pace for... read more

Rewilding Mozambique: Zinave National Park

25 May 2023

We went on a recce to Zinave National Park, Inhambane Province, which is setting the... read more