Cape Winelands District tour to Witzenberg

Posted on 2 March 2012

When I was asked if I wanted to be a part of the Cape Winelands District Municipality’s tour to the Witzenberg area my immediate response was yes. The itinerary was amazing, and I was instantly sold on the prospect of wine tasting at some of the area’s most beautiful wine farms!

We met in Stellenbosch, and were given further information and itineraries and a goodie bag full of delicious food, before departing for Waverley Hills, an organic wine estate situated in Wolseley, between Tulbagh and Ceres, at the foothills of the Witzenberg Mountain Range.

Waverley Hills

We drew up to an elegant building, surrounded by fynbos, and an exquisite indigenous garden, with the mountains forming an idyllic back drop. The building has a small pond by the walkway to the main entrance where they are trying to breed a rare kind of indigenous fish which has been wiped out in the main rivers. The entrance area is spacious and tastefully decorated, with a cosy looking fireplace and couch on the side. The main dining area, has an element of rustic charm, with wooden tables decorated by sunflowers, and the outside balcony looks out over the rolling green hills of grass and indigenous fynbos.

We were greeted by scrumptious homemade cheese scones, accompanied with merlot grape jam, and happily munched away, as we were introduced to the innovative estate. Waverley Hills is a fairly recent establishment, but in a short time they’ve accomplished much! They are HACCP certified, and produce excellent quality organic red and white wines, as well as a wide array of olive products, including olive oil which is Pick n Pay’s corporate brand. It is an ideal wedding venue, and can cater for 120 to 130 people, with a wedding coordinator and caterer on site, as well as a recently built chapel.

They are also extremely green oriented, and currently have Fynbos nurseries, where they grow indigenous plants which they later use to rehabilitate former agricultural areas, amongst others. They are heavily involved in education, and have a project whereby school children are taken to rivers where they conduct an assessment of the area, remove alien vegetation and pollution and are then given their own indigenous plants to propagate, which they later replant in and alongside the rivers.

Johan took us to the spacious conference room where we found six wines poured out for each of us to try. After telling us about the organic wine making production process, which utilises the gravitational system, and uses less sulphite than normal wines require, he gave us a short explanation of each of the wines we were tasting, and the sounds of contented ‘ooohs and aaahs’ filled the room, as we tried each delicious wine. My favourite was the Shiraz 2010, which was sweet and spicy, with black cherry and sweet plum flavours. I also enjoyed the Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, which was soft and delicate, with red cherry tobacco, Fynbos and roasted coffee bean flavours coming through. The Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier 2010 is their flagship wine, and it didn’t disappoint- it’s a full bodied, complex wine, with florally flavours, and last year it was voted the best organic wine in the Southern Hemisphere.

The wines are all extremely reasonably priced, ranging from R35 to R110 per bottle. We then tasted a few of their olive products, which included dry olives and tapenades, as well as red and white wine jelly, before inspecting the nursery. At the larger Fynbos nursery, Oom Klaas showed us some of the Fynbos plants they were germinating, and then performed his party trick, which involved lighting a fire inside a drum, to create smoke to germinate protea seeds. Tel: Cellar 023-231-0002 Restaurant 072-890-4373 email: [email protected], www.waverleyhills.co.za

Die Tolhuis

Next stop was Die Tolhuis, a darling little restaurant with oodles of charm, situated alongside Mitchell’s Pass, en route to Ceres. It’s a quaint bistro and deli, owned by two ex- journalists, who got tired of the humdrum and high pressure of city life, and decided to pursue their dream of opening a restaurant.  Fancy some ‘cow in a can’ or a ‘porky Dutchman?’ The food is quirky and delicious, and the decor is rustic and sweet, with red and white checked tablecloths which make you feel like you’re going on a picnic. I had the burger, which was a homemade patty on fresh ciabatta, with one of the most divine salads I have ever tasted accompanying it. We also sampled some delicious lavender cordial, which was sweet and refreshing. Die Tolhuis has an interesting history and a bright future, as its owners are starting a gallery showcasing both local and international artists in the next few years. It really is an ideal rest spot, with a climbing frame to keep the kid’s happy, amazing food, kind hosts and a relaxed atmosphere. Tel: 023-312-1211 email [email protected], www.tolhuis.co.za

Matroosberg Private Nature reserve

From Die Tolhuis, we drove to Ceres, to Matroosberg Private Nature Reserve on Erfdeel farm. It’s a family run reserve and farm, which offers accommodation, and a range of activities including quad biking, a 4×4 trail, abseiling, snow boarding, hiking, fishing and horse riding. We were greeted by Didi and her dogs, and were treated to some cold drinks and cookies, before setting off on a fruit farm tour, on the back of an open truck. What Didi and her family wanted us to appreciate from the tour, was the work that goes in to producing the produce that it takes us five minutes to buy from the shops. Hundreds of families are supported on the incomes earned from fruit and onion picking, and the workers are also each provided with somewhere to stay.

The onion pickers were all sitting in rows, alongside the onions which were buried in straw to protect them from the sun. Each onion must be cut at both ends, before being transported to the warehouse where they are individually graded and separated according to size and quality. The workers must have been baking in the heat, but they all seemed happy and content. I picked a couple of onions but I wasn’t nearly as fast as Millicent, the woman seated next to me, whose fingers were flying as she picked onion after onion in the time it took me to pick one! We also visited the apple orchard, where Didi’s adorable little girl happily picked about four apples, and sat munching in the sunshine on the back of the truck. Tel: 082-453-9841 / 079-502-7382 email [email protected], www.matroosberg.com

Ceres Inn Guest House and Bistro

It’s a pretty, quirky little spot, with a stunning garden, old- fashioned charm, a well- stocked bar, and two beautiful bassets. My room was well laid out, with a lovely double bed, TV, couch and a big shower. The rooms vary from R295 (budget single) to R645 (double) with accommodation for three or four guests also available as well as a honeymoon suite, which has its own jacuzzi. We had a delicious supper at the bistro- I had the chicken schnitzel with veggies, and three different sauces to choose from. The food is reasonably priced and the portions are generous. The following morning, we also enjoyed a scrumptious full English breakfast, before departing for Tulbagh. Tel: 023-312-2325 email [email protected], www.ceresinn.co.za

Church Street, Tulbagh

At Tulbagh, we were greeted by Jason Clark, who was taking us on a guided tour of Church Street. Church Street is home to the oldest church in South Africa, and forty other monuments, in a road only 900m long.The whole street has been impressively restored, and now has the largest number of Cape- Dutch, Edwardian and Victorian examples of architecture in one street in South Africa. All buildings constructed after 1900 were demolished and rebuilt in the original style. The N.G. Kerk was constructed in 1740, and there is still a N.G. priest living in the parsonage at the end of the street, to this day! There is a clock on the wall in the back room, which fell off the wall during the earthquake in 1969 and never worked again- the time it shows now, is the time the earthquake happened. The church is beautiful, with high ceilings, and period furniture.

The Earthquake Museum in the tourist office, has a photograph of Church Street taken 100 years before the earthquake. It is fascinating to see how the street’s architecture changed in that time- span, especially after commercial steam ships and railways were introduced. Thatch roofs and gable windows were replaced by Edwardian and Victorian styles. The walk along the street was extremely enjoyable. It’s a place of total tranquility, with white washed buildings with thatched roofs, surrounded by stunning gardens bursting with colourful flowers and trees. You really do feel as if you have stepped back in time, as you wander in the sunshine, stopping at the various monuments, and visiting some of the delightful restaurants and stores in the area. We stopped at a house built in the Victorian style, with its original furniture, which was fascinating to see, and we also went to a house from the Cape Dutch era, which was far more austere and sparsely furnished. Jason owns a number of properties along the street, most of which are guesthouses, called the Cape Dutch Quarters. Each place has been beautifully and tastefully restored to offer guests a unique glimpse into the past. The Tulbagh Country Guesthouse’s bedrooms have stunning four-poster double beds with gorgeous bathrooms, a comfortable sitting room, and a lovely dining area and kitchen. It also has a pool, and offers a unique roof- top view of the whole street and beyond. Tel: Jason Clark 023-230-1171/ 079-051-2059 email [email protected], www.cdq.co.za

De Oude Drostdy Museum

De Oude Drostdy Museum is a classic Cape Dutch style building built in 1804. It is a national monument, as well as a cultural- historical museum that hosts a delightful collection of early Cape furniture, including a beautiful collection of gramophones. Visitors can steal away down a narrow staircase, to the underground slave quarters, where you can sample delicious Drostdy Hof wines by candle light.

It’s quite eerie down in the slave quarters- a few years ago a couple went wine tasting there and took a photograph by the two big wooden barrels. When they had their picture developed they could see a strange, ghostly apparition standing next to them in the image. However, if there are ghosts they are all friendly ones, and they didn’t bother us, as we drunk in the atmosphere, and the amazing wines, with the dessert wine and rose being my favourites. Tel 023-230-0203

Lemberg Wine Estate

Lemberg Wine Estate was next. It has undergone new management, and a brand revamping, and is a fairly recent establishment, but the estate is beautiful and the wines are fantastic. Cellar tours, group tastings and lunches are offered by appointment, and there are also self- catering units available. The scenery is spectacular, with a stunning vineyard and garden area. The reception area is beautifully decorated, while the tasting room is quite grand, with a large wooden table down its centre, and glass bottles adorning the walls. Some of my favourite wines were the Rose Blanc de Noir 2011, which has a dry but subtle flavour and soft texture, as well as the Sauvignon Blanc 2011 which has a very fruity, deep flavour and the red wine mixture of pinotage and pinot noir which is a very fruity wine with a dry tannin. David Sadie, the winemaker is passionate about his wines, and has a clear vision regarding how he wants them to evolve. The wines are available for purchase at Carolines in the V & A Waterfront, as well as Arnolds in Kloof Street and at the Old Biscuit Mill. Prices vary from R50 to R150. Tel 021-300-1130, email [email protected].

Saronsberg

Next we visited Saronsberg, where we had a picnic. Nestled at the foot of the Saronsberg Mountains, the scenic estate is beautiful, with an elegant, modern building covered in vines, overlooking a lake surrounded by green grass and trees, and a stunning vineyard. The wines have won multiple awards, but instead of displaying these proudly in the main restaurant and tasting area, the modest wine maker, Dewaldt Heyns, displays them in the passage to the bathroom, where they take up every available wall space there is!

Several works by prominent artist, Angus Taylor are on display in the Momentary Permanence exhibit, which includes his beautiful sculpture of the woman, who seems to be the guardian of the lake she stands next to. The lunch we enjoyed was divine- I tucked into a selection of cheeses, cold meats, mini quiches, potato salad, asparagus wrapped in cream cheese and smoked salmon, fresh breads and delicious green salads, before ending my meal with homemade brownies, meringues and fruit skewers. Our meal was accompanied by their beautiful, full bodied wines, and champagne, and was served outside on the patio, on a long wooden table, shaded by umbrellas and vines.

After the meal, I explored the exquisite interior, which is tastefully decorated with modern art pieces, and allows you to view the cellar and wine-making area (look out for the cows!). The high ceilings and simple but effective design give it an airy and summery feel, and it is the perfect venue to relax and unwind as you sip stunning wines accompanied by amazing food. I had a wonderful experience and hope to visit again soon! Tel: 023-230-0707 email [email protected], www.saronsberg.com

We ended our tour by browsing through Church Street, exploring a few of the little shops there, including Things I Love restaurant and shop. There are many beautiful clothes, decorative items, and delicious preserves and jams for sale, and it is an absolute pleasure to stroll down the quaint street.

My experience in the Witzenberg area was unforgettable, and has inspired me to visit these areas more often. Living in Cape Town, we tend to think of Tulbagh and Ceres as far away, but in actual fact they are only a two to three hour drive away, and are well- worth the effort! The drive itself is beautiful, and there is much to explore including awe- inspiring scenery that will relax you, and let you unwind for a bit, as you wander amongst gorgeous mountains, visit the many wine estates and restaurants on offer, pick fresh fruit, play in the snow, do adventure sports, go shopping for gifts and produce and drink in the fresh air. Thank you to Cape Winelands District Municipality and Jessica Jones from DonValley for a wonderfully enriching and positive experience.

 

 For accommodation in Witzenberg, try Getaway Accommodation for some fantastic options!






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